Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology

Baki, g. — Alexander, K.S.

1ª Edición Mayo 2015

Inglés

Tapa dura

728 pags

1178 gr

16 x 24 x 4 cm

ISBN 9781118763780

Editorial WILEY

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Description

Designed as an educational and training text, this book provides a clear and easily understandable review of cosmetics and over the counter (OTC) drug-cosmetic products. The text features learning objectives, key concepts, and key terms at the beginning and review questions and glossary of terms at the end of each chapter section.

Overviews functions, product design, formulation and development, and quality control of cosmetic ingredients
Discusses physiological, pharmaceutical, and formulation knowledge of decorative care products
Reviews basic terms and definitions used in the cosmetic industry and provides an overview of the regulatory environment in the US
Includes learning objectives, key concepts, and key terms at the beginning and review questions and glossary of terms at the end of each chapter section
Has PowerPoint slides as ancillaries, downloadable from the book's wiley.com page, for adopting professors

Preface
Acknowledgments
Biography of Gabriella Baki
Biography of Kenneth S. Alexander

1 General Concepts 1

Section 1: Basic Definitions 1

Learning Objectives 1
Key Concepts 2
What is Cosmetic Science? 2
Basic Definitions 4
How is a Product’s Intended Use Established in the United States? 10
Popular Cosmetic Claims 10
A Special Category: Soap 18
Glossary of Terms for Section 1 19
Review Questions for Section 1 20
References 23

Section 2: Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products.

Cosmetic Ingredients and Active Ingredients used in Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 25
Learning Objectives 25
Key Concepts 26
Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 26
Major Ingredient Types in Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products and their Functions 28
Glossary of Terms for Section 2 45
Review Questions for Section 2 47
References 49

Section 3: Dosage Forms for Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 50

Learning Objectives 50
Key Concepts 51
What is a Dosage Form? 52
Dosage Forms for Cosmetic Applications 53
Glossary of Terms for Section 3 63
Review Questions for Section 3 64
References 67

2 Legislation for Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 69

Section 1: Current Rules and Regulations for Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products in the United States and European Union 69

Learning Objectives 69
Key Concepts 70
Introduction 71
Regulation in the United States 72
Regulation in the European Union 80
Import of Products 84
Recalls 84
Glossary of Terms for Section 1 85
Review Questions for Section 1 85
References 88

Section 2: Labeling Tutorial for Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products Marketed in the United States 90

Learning Objectives 90
Key Concepts 91
Introduction 92
Definitions 92
Cosmetic Products 94
OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 98
INCI Naming 101
How do you Know the Exact Composition of a Cosmetic Product or OTC Drug–Cosmetic Product? 102
Glossary of Terms for Section 2 103
Review Questions for Section 2 104
References 108

Section 3: Government and Independent Organizations in the Cosmetic Industry 109

Learning Objectives 109
Key Concepts 109
Introduction 110
Food and Drug Administration 110
Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition 111
Center for Drug Evaluation and Research 111
Personal Care Product Council 111
Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel 111
Federal Trade Commission 112
European Commission 112
Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety 113
Cosmetics Europe – the Personal Care Association 113
Glossary of Terms for Section 3 113
Review Questions for Section 3 114
References 116

Section 4: Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 116

Learning Objectives 116
Key Concepts 117
Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 117
Glossary of Terms for Section 4 122
Review Questions for Section 4 123
References 124

3 Skin Care Products 125

Introduction 125

Section 1: Skin Anatomy and Physiology 126

Learning Objectives 126
Key Concepts 127
Introduction 127
Structure and Function of Human Skin 128
Epidermis 128
Dermis 132
Hypodermis 133
Moisture Content of Normal Skin 133
Skin Flora and Skin pH 135
Surface Charge of Normal Skin 135
Skin Types 136
Skin Types Based on Hydration State and Lipid Content 137
Skin Types Based on Gender 139
Glossary of Terms for Section 1 140
Review Questions for Section 1 141
References 144

Section 2: Skin Cleansing Products 147

Learning Objectives 147
Key Concepts 148
Introduction 149
Types and Definition of Skin Cleansing Products 150
History of Using Skin Cleansing Products 150
How Skin Cleansing Products May Affect the Skin? 152
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 154
Cleansing Products – Basic Concepts 155
Classification Based on Chemical Nature and Mildness 155
Classification Based on Cleaning Principle 156
Classification Based on Foamability 157
Classification Based on Product Types 157
Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Cleansing Products 158
Face 158
Body 164
Hand 170
Considerations When Selecting Skin Cleansing Products 175
Typical Quality Problems of Skin Cleansing Products 176
Evaluation of Skin Cleansing Products 180
Quality Parameters Generally Tested 180
Efficacy (Performance) Parameters Generally Tested 190
Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 191
Packaging of Skin Cleansing Products 194
Glossary of Terms for Section 2 194
Review Questions for Section 2 196
References 199

Section 3: Skin Moisturizing Products 204

Learning Objectives 204
Key Concepts 205
Introduction 206
Types and Definition of Skin Moisturizers 206
History of Using Skin Moisturizers 207
How Skin Moisturizers May Affect the Skin? 208
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 210
Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Moisturizers 210
Considerations When Selecting Skin Moisturizers 219
Typical Quality Issues of Skin Moisturizer Formulations 220
Evaluation of Skin Moisturizing Products 220
Packaging of Skin Moisturizers 226
Glossary of Terms for Section 3 226
Review Questions for Section 3 227
References 230

Section 4: Products for Special Skin Concerns – Aging and Acne 232

Learning Objectives 232
Key Concepts 234
Introduction 234

Part 1: Anti-Aging Products 235
- Drug or Cosmetic? 238
- Typical Ingredients Used in Topical Anti-Aging Products 238
- Formulation Considerations for Topical Anti-Aging Products 243
- Formulation Challenges for Common Anti-Aging Ingredients 247
- Safety Issues Regarding the Use of Topical Non-invasive Anti-Aging Ingredients 248
Part 2: Anti-Acne Products 249
- Causes of Acne and Potential Exacerbating Factors 251
- Symptoms and Types of Acne Vulgaris 253
- Treatment of Acne Vulgaris 255
- Formulation Considerations 259
- Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 260
- Glossary of Terms for Section 4 261
- Review Questions for Section 4 262
- References 265

Section 5: Sun Care Products 273

Learning Objectives 273
Key Concepts 274
Introduction 275
Sun Protection Basics 275
Sun Protection Factor (SPF) 278
Broad-Spectrum Protection 280
Water Resistance 281
Effects of Ultraviolet Radiation on the Human Body 281
Types and Definition of Sun Care Products 283
History of Using Sun Care Products 284
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 285
Sunscreens 286
UV Filters 286
Additional Ingredients of Sunscreens 288
Product Forms 289
Optimizing Product Efficacy and Consumer Acceptance 291
After-Sun Preparations 293
Typical Quality Problems of Sun Care Products 294
Evaluation of Sun Care Products 295
Packaging of Sun Care Products 303
Glossary of Terms for Section 5 304
Review Questions for Section 5 306
References 309

Section 6: Deodorants and Antiperspirants 315

Learning Objectives 315
Key Concepts 316
Introduction 317
Anatomy and Physiology of Human Sweat Glands 317
Types and Definition of Products Reducing Body Odor 319
History of Using Deodorants and Antiperspirants 320
How Deodorants and Antiperspirants May Affect the Human Skin and Body? 321
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 322
Types of Ingredients Product Forms and Formulation of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 323
Typical Quality Problems of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 329
Evaluation of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 331
Packaging of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 336
Glossary of Terms for Section 6 336
Review Questions for Section 6 337
References 339

4 Color Cosmetics 345

Introduction 345

Section 1: Lip Makeup Products 346

Learning Objectives 346
Key Concepts 347
Introduction 348
Anatomy and Physiology of Human Lips 348
History of Using Lip Makeup Products 349
Types and Definition of Lip Makeup Products 350
How Lip Makeup Products May Affect the Human Lips? 352
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 352
Typical Ingredients of Lip Makeup Products 353
Typical Lipstick Types 356
Formulation of Lip Makeup Products 356
Typical Quality Problems of Lip Makeup Products 360
Evaluation of Lip Makeup Products 363
Packaging of Lip Makeup Products 366
Glossary of Terms for Section 1 366
Review Questions for Section 1 367
References 370

Section 2: Eye Makeup Products 371

Learning Objectives 371
Key Concepts 372
Introduction 372
Anatomy and Physiology of Human Eyelids and Eyelashes 373
History of Using Eye Makeup Products 374
Types and Definition of Eye Makeup Products 375
How Eye Makeup Products May Affect the Eye Area? 375
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 377
Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Eye Makeup Products 378
Typical Quality Problems of Eye Makeup Products 385
Evaluation of Eye Makeup Products 386
Packaging of Eye Makeup Products 391
Glossary of Terms for Section 2 392
Review Questions for Section 2 393
References 395

Section 3: Facial Makeup Products 397

Learning Objectives 397
Key Concepts 398
Introduction 398
Types and Definition of Facial Makeup Products 399
History of Using Facial Makeup Products 400
How Facial Makeup Products May Affect the Skin? 400
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 402
Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Facial Makeup Products 403
Powder Makeup Products for the Face 403
Typical Quality Problems of Facial Makeup Products 410
Evaluation of Facial Makeup Products 410
Packaging of Facial Makeup Products 411
Glossary of Terms for Section 3 412
Review Questions for Section 3 413
References 414

Section 4: Nail Care Products 416

Learning Objectives 416
Key Concepts 417
Introduction 417
Anatomy and Physiology of Human Nails 418
History of Using Nail Care Products 420
Types and Definition of Nail Care Products 421
How Nail Care Products May Affect the Human Nails? 422
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 423
Functional Nail Care Products 424
Typical Quality Problems of Nail Care Products 433
Evaluation of Nail Care Products 434
Packaging of Nail Care Products 439
Glossary of Terms for Section 4 440
Review Questions for Section 4 441
References 443

5 Hair Care Products 447

Introduction 447

Section 1: Hair Anatomy and Physiology 448

Learning Objectives 448
Key Concepts 449
Introduction 449
Structure and Function of Human Hair 450
Hair Growth Cycle and Hair Loss 453
Chemical Composition of Human Hair 455
Physical Properties of Human Hair 457
Hair Weathering 457
Hair Types 458
Glossary of Terms for Section 1 460
Review Questions for Section 1 461

References 463

Section 2: Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 464

Learning Objectives 464
Key Concepts 465
Introduction 466
Types and Definition of Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 466
History of Using Shampoos and Hair Conditioning Products 467
How Hair Cleaning and Conditioning Products May Affect the Hair and Scalp? 467
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 469
Hair Cleansing Products 470
Hair Conditioners 476
Types of Conditioners 478
Typical Quality Problems of Shampoos and Hair Conditioners 479
Evaluation of Shampoos and Hair Conditioners 480
Packaging of Shampoos and Hair Conditioners 482
Glossary of Terms for Section 2 482
Review Questions for Section 2 483
References 485

Section 3: Hair Styling Products Hair Straightening Products and Hair Waving Products 487

Learning Objectives 487
Key Concepts 489
Introduction 489
Types and Definition of Hair Styling Products Hair Straightening Products and Hair Waving Products 490
History of Using Hair Styling Products 491
How Hair Styling Products and Procedures May Affect the Human Hair and Scalp? 492
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 494
Hair Styling Formulations 495
Hair Styling Procedures 499
Typical Quality Problems of Hair Styling Products 507
Evaluation of Hair Styling Products 507
Glossary of Terms for Section 3 515
Review Questions for Section 3 516
References 518

Section 4: Hair Coloring Products 522

Learning Objectives 522
Key Concepts 523
Introduction 524
Types and Definition of Hair Coloring Products 524
History of Using Hair Coloring Products 525
How Hair Coloring Products May Affect the Scalp and Hair? 526
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 527
Current US Regulation on Hair Dyes 528
Types Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Hair Coloring Products 529
Typical Quality Problems of Hair Coloring Products 536
Evaluation of Hair Coloring Products 536
Packaging of Hair Coloring Products 537
Glossary of Terms for Section 4 538
Review Questions for Section 4 539
References 541

6 Oral and Dental Care Products 545

Introduction 545
Learning Objectives 546
Key Concepts 547
Anatomy and Physiology of the Human Oral Cavity 548
Brief Review of the Most Common Oral and Dental Care Problems 551
History of Using Oral and Dental Care Products 553
Types and Definition of Oral and Dental Care Products 554
How Oral and Dental Care Products May Affect the Teeth and the Oral Cavity? 555
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 556
Toothpaste 557
Ingredients 557
Rheology of Toothpaste Formulations 563
Formulation of Toothpaste 564
Mouthwash 566
Ingredients 566
Formulation of Mouthwash 568
Other Products 568
Tooth Whitening Aids 568
Tooth Powders 570
Dental Floss 570
Typical Quality Problems of Oral and Dental Care Products 571
Hardening 571
Inappropriate Viscosity 571
Grittiness 572
Cloudy Solution 572
Evaluation of Dental and Oral Care Products 572
Quality Parameters Generally Tested 572
Efficacy (Performance) Parameters Generally Tested 573
Ingredients Causing Safety Concern 574
Packaging of Dental and Oral Care Products 575
Glossary of Terms for Chapter 6 576
Review Questions for Chapter 6 577
References 580

7 Other Products 585

Introduction 585

Section 1: Hair Removal Products 586

Learning Objectives 586
Key Concepts 587
Introduction 588
Brief Review of the Structure and Function of Human Hair 588
History of Using Hair Removal Products 589
Possible Methods for Removing Hair 590
Types and Definition of Hair Removal Products 594
How Hair Removal Products May Affect the Skin and Hair? 595
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 597
Product Types Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Hair Removal Products 598
Typical Quality Problems of Hair Removal Products 607
Evaluation of Hair Removal Products 607
Packaging of Hair Removal Products 608
Glossary of Terms for Section 1 608
Review Questions for Section 1 609
References 611

Section 2: Baby Care Products 613

Learning Objectives 613
Key Concepts 614
Introduction 615
Anatomical and Physiological Differences between Baby and Adult Skin and Hair 615
Types and Definition of Baby Care Products 618
History of Using Baby Care Products 618
How Baby Care Products May Affect Baby Skin and Hair? 619
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 621
Types Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Baby Care Products 621
Typical Quality Problems of Baby Care Products 629
Evaluation of Baby Care Products 629
Packaging of Baby Care Products 631
Glossary of Terms for Section 2 632
Review Questions for Section 2 632
References 634

Section 3: Sunless Tanning Products 639

Learning Objectives 639
Key Concepts 639
Introduction 640
Types and Definition of Sunless Tanning Products 640
History of Using Sunless Tanning Products 641
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 641
How Sunless Tanners May Affect the Human Body? 642
Sunless Tanning Products 644
Formulation Concerns 646
Typical Quality Problems of Sunless Tanning Products 648
Evaluation of Sunless Tanning Products 648
Packaging of Sunless Tanning Products 649
Glossary of Terms for Section 3 649
Review Questions for Section 3 650
References 651

Section 4: Feminine Hygiene Products 653

Learning Objectives 653
Key Concepts 654
Introduction 655
Anatomy and Physiology of the Female Genital Area 655
Types and Definition of Feminine Hygiene Products 658
History of Using Feminine Hygiene Products 659
How Feminine Hygiene Products May Affect the Human Body and Genital Area? 660
Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 662
Types Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Feminine Hygiene Products 663
Typical Quality Problems of Feminine Hygiene Products 668
Evaluation of Feminine Hygiene Products 668
Packaging of Feminine Hygiene Products 670
Glossary of Terms for Section 4 671
Review Questions for Section 4 672
References 674

Key for Review Questions 679

Index 685

Authors

Gabriella Baki is an Assistant Professor of Pharmaceutics at the University of Toledo College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences (UT CPPS). She serves as the main instructor in UT CPPS’s undergraduate program, the BS in Pharmaceutical Sciences Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design Major. Dr. Baki is a pharmacist, graduated in 2008 from the University of Szeged, Hungary and from where she also has a Ph.D. in Pharmaceutics.

Kenneth Alexander is Professor of Pharmacy at The University of Toledo and has been there since 1972. He developed the Industrial Pharmacy graduate program at this institution and is currently its Coordinator. In 2003, he developed the BSPS Pharmaceutics Major and, in 2011, the Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design Major and is the currently the Coordinator for both undergraduate programs. He graduated from the Philadelphia College of Pharmacy & Science and the University of Rhode Island.